Ladakh Expedition Report 2009


Miles Ashton visited Ladakh this summer sponsored by The Ogden Trust and BSES Expeditions
 
On the 4th August we left Exeter School travelling to Heathrow to begin our epic adventure, the long flight suddenly emerged us into the routine of curries for breakfast – something we would later consider as a nourishing start to the day. We landed in Delhi in extreme heat and discomfort due to the humidity, yet immediately loaded our kayaks and headed to our accommodation. Delhi was a true experience, providing vivid images of appalling poverty that will never escape my memory. We were taken on a street tour by the Salaam Baalak Trust, who provide shelter and medical care to abandoned children who are forced to work on the streets of New Delhi by gang masters. Led by a young man who had many stories of his childhood struggle of survival, yet as a trained guide he has a spirited success story. He took us to the poverty stricken areas tourists would never normally roam; we ended up at a rehabilitation centre where the children sung to us. They had so little: abandoned by their parents, very sparse food or water, however they were so happy and delighted that we had come to visit them. This really opened my eyes to the world around me, my appreciation for the hardship people endure around the world has increased no end and it has made me realise how fortunate I am to be in my situation.

Very early the next morning we departed Delhi and after a short flight over huge mountain scenery we landed in Leh, the capital of Ladkah. We were staying at the Oriental Guest House, our hosts were so helpful – a common trait in Ladakh. Leh is still immersed in poverty, yet it boasts vibrant culture and a sense of real community. The next few days were spent acclimatising with short hikes and visits to nearby monasteries, learning about culture and the religion that is Buddhism. I have learnt and come to realise that the core moral values that this religion is built on form the true foundations of happiness. A short but steep hike to Leh Monastery gave us stunning views over the Indus Valley and a perfect view point to watch the sun do down.

The first few days kayaking were for the purpose of warming up; we paddled the Lower Indus followed by the Lower Zanskar the next day. The Lower Zanskar was my first experience of high volume kayaking; the river was boisterous and commanding and resulted in huge rushes of adrenaline. A day on the Upper Indus added to the excitement with a few team members bailing on tough sections combined with breath taking views making these days very memorable.

We went to the Druk White Lotus School, an experience from the expedition that has really stood out in my mind; I found it great fun playing with these children. The novelty of kicking rugby balls high into the air still hadn’t worn off after we left. It was wonderful to have them sing and dance to us, they were delighted to have visitors and learn a little about western life.
 
Day 10 and we began our 3 day bus journey to the village of Gyapak; we camped in the wilderness after spine shattering days on the road admiring the incredible scenery, accompanied by Aquaterra we were very well catered for and happy to have western food especially sitting by glaciers at lunch time. We eventually arrived at our homestay, where we would live with a family for 5 days to complete our community project building a work shed using passive solar technology with the Ladakh Ecological Development Group to aid the Women’s Self Help Group. Our project raised the temperature in the building by 20°C for them to create handicraft during the winter for income. The homestay was a real test and put me outside my comfort zone, the food and culture was very traditional and brought out everybody's real personality. I feel I gained a lot from this project, it really tested me working hard through the day on the building and back to poverty in the evening – fortunately their hospitality was amazing. I appreciate family values working together so much more after this endeavour. A visit and talk by the Dalai Lama to the region gave the homestay a silver lining.
 

The final leg of the expedition was to kayak the Zanskar Gorge – ‘Grand Canyon of Asia’, it did not let us down. Not only was the white water fantastic but the walls of the gorge and mountainous scenery was immense. After testing days on the river we camped in the barren landscape, eating around camp fires during the night. The Zanskar Expedition left me in awe of the world around me and the desolate landscapes that some people live in. When we exited the gorge we drove back to Leh for a hot shower, a delight after 15 days of washing in rivers. Early next morning we transferred back to Heathrow and arrived home safely, with memories that will live with me for the rest of my life.