Report on BSES Expedition to Ladakh
Returning from Ladakh last week, and after having finally unpacked my rucksack, I come round to writing my report for the trust, as requested.
I had the most incredible time and loved every second of the trip. It is certainly proving hard to adjust back to life in the UK. I think one of the things I miss most (amongst many others!) is the lack of open space and absence of 100 mile scenery. I have definitely come back changed, in many ways, and the tranquillity and contemplative nature of the mountains is truly amazing. It really did give me a chance to reflect on a lot of things, collect my thoughts and resolve a lot of things in my mind.
With regard to what I did and achieved whilst I was in Ladakh, after two days in Delhi, we flew up to Leh (the capital) and spent three days there. We went white water rafting on the Indus river which was fantastic fun, spent a day perusing the bazaars and sights of Leh, and had a day of vital science and mountaineering briefings. After this time, and feeling acclimatised, we set off in a convoy of jeeps to drive over the Khardung-La, the highest motorable road in the world. The drive, taking most of the day was incredible, with stunning views and scenery as far as we could see.
We arrived in Hundar, and from here, we embarked on a 3 day trek through a stunning canyon up a tributary of the Shyok river, to arrive out our base camp. Set on a plateau in a spectacular valley, we spent three weeks here, taking day trips out up the mountains, and conducting science work at various height intervals. Setting out quadrats at intervals of 200m vertical height, we measured the species diversity and how it changed, as well as logging all the various flora and fauna that we found. There was also a mapping project that involved carrying a GPS with us wherever we went, marking waypoints and tracks to input into computer software. We also carried out our physiology project, each day before breakfast having to perform a step test and take blood pressure and oxygen saturation levels.
Highlights of time here included a two day trek to a high pass at the end of the valley, where we spent a magical night bivvying under the stars, and summiting two major peaks. Sam-Gael, at 5860m, and Dawa, at 5980m, where I recorded a first ascent of the North Face Direct. The climbing was amazing, views breathtaking, and although incredible tiring (summiting Dawa involved a 4am start from advance base camp) it was well worth the effort.
We left base camp and enjoyed a 5 day trek back to Leh. We managed to summit yet another peak, as we were negotiating the high pass of the Lasermou-La. Arriving back and the Pangong Hotel in Leh, bedraggled, tired and smelling less than fresh, none of us wanted to leave.
Another thing that really struck me was the amazing people I met. The biggest impact was had on me by the sherpas who accompanied us for the duration of our time at base camp. They were the most amazing and resourceful people I have ever met, always so keen and willing to help and meet our every need. We really did want for nothing and their smiles will stay with me for a long time. We would wake in the morning to the sound of a ladle banging on a pan, and shouts of ‘Tea readyyyy!’, and they even made us a cricket bat out of vegetable crate! This was an aspect of the trip, that for me personally, really added to the experience and I feel proud and honoured to have met the likes of Tensing, Kindu and Denza.
Back in England, all I can think about is how much I wish I was back in Ladakh. It has made me realise how much of a materialistic world we live in, and how little I missed when I was away. I value things so much more now, compared to when I left, and my whole outlook on life has changed. I sincerely thank you and the trust for the help you gave me that enabled me to go on this once in a lifetime and very much life changing experience.
Will Blackshaw
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