The Ogden Trust

Leanne Defty from Easington Community School was sponsored by The Ogden Trust and BSES Expeditions to spend 5 weeks in the Yukon this summer

 

15th July – 20th August
 
From the moment I first heard about the BSES Expeditions in 2007 in a GCSE Science lesson, I knew that it was something that I would love to do. I filled in an application form, had my interview and before I knew it I was at the briefing weekend meeting the people I would be spending 5 weeks with. It was here, that I found out I was in ‘Steller Fire’ named after the German botanist Georg Wilhelm Steller and that I was to study ecology while in the Yukon. The briefing weekend made me all the more excited for the expedition itself and when I finally said goodbye to my family and boarded the plane in Heathrow I wasn’t sad or nervous, just so thankful that I was there and had been given this amazing opportunity.
After two flights, a night in a school in Whitehorse and an 8 hour journey in the Bluebird (an American style yellow school bus) I came face to face with base camp for the first time. There was a lot left to the imagination but after several hours hard work clearing the site and putting up tents we could finally call base camp ‘home’. 
 

During the first few days in the wilderness, I was given essential training in canoeing, mountaineering and river crossing as well as advice on what to do if I encountered a bear.  Since we were living in bear country, there were many what seemed time consuming and unnecessary precautions that we had to take including keeping any food and toiletries in bear barrels 50m away from our tents. This rule was relaxed slightly at base camp, as we were surrounded by an electric fence and alarm system.

Once we had all been given our training, we split into fires and ventured out into the true wilderness for the first time. I had expected to be amazed by the scenery, be physically and mentally challenged, capture special moments on camera, see exciting wildlife and make strong friendships but what I experienced was beyond anything that I could have anticipated. As a fire, we lived in extremes of temperature from 25°C+ every day at base camp to -7°C at night in the mountains. We witnessed a change in the number of daylight hours from 20+ at the beginning of the expedition to about 15 at the end. We were the only fire to successfully climb the un-named peak we fondly dubbed ‘Smiley Mountain’ which had, by far, the worst terrain. In most parts a steeper than 1:1 gradient covered by fallen trees, loose rocks and moss that you sunk in up to your knees made it seem like an obstacle course.

The exploration of the area was so physically and mentally draining but somehow you always found the strength and determination to keep going. I have gained so much from the expedition and have done things I never dreamed I would do, like my 24 hour solo. I never thought that I would be spending so long by myself in bear country but for me, it was a highlight of the expedition. Words can’t describe the things I thought about when left on my own in such a massive yet vulnerable wilderness.  I felt so small compared to the environment I was in, but realised that I can still make a difference in helping to conserve it, as can everyone. I kept a record of the things I felt during my time alone and I still like to read through it and it always brings a smile to my face. Steller Fire conquered some amazing peaks as part of exploring the area we were in. Nothing can come close to the feeling of immense satisfaction when you are standing at the top of a 6,000ft+ mountain, knowing the effort you have put in to get there.

At the end of the expedition, it was up to us, the YEs of Steller Fire to decide what we wanted to do as our last piece of exploration. We decided that there would be no better way to end the expedition than at the top of the highest mountain on the map – Mount Cameron. We knew this would be a challenge but we planned it carefully and despite bad weather, made it to the top. Everyone was so happy and proud of themselves and it was so good to look around at the view and see every other mountain below us. It felt like you were on top of the world.

The science work I carried out was also very rewarding. I studied ecology and this included surveying birds and small mammals. The data we collected is going to Environment Canada where they will use it to compare against any future data they collect to see if the ecosystem is changing. The science work involved some very early mornings, hours of silence so we didn’t scare the animals, tedious setting of traps and careful recording but it was all worth it and we saw some magnificent wildlife at very close range. Although I didn’t see a bear, some of the more spectacular wildlife I saw was a moose and her calf no more than 5m away from my canoe, a pair of wolverines, juvenile and adult bald and golden eagles, osprey, trumpeter swans and beaver. Although I was primarily learning about the ecology of the area, I also got the chance to get an insight into the research the other fires were doing. I learnt about the geology of the area and panned for minerals in Emerald Lake with Logan fire. Something I found astounding was that the rocks at the top of the mountains in that area are older than the ones underneath it and are some 4million years old. I also feel privileged to say that I have spent some time with members of the First Nation community that live in the Yukon and who use the environment to make a living. They lead hard lives and it was touching to hear them speak of the hardships they have overcome and to tell us how pleased they were that we, as an expedition, respected the environment during our time there. It was also an honour to take part in some of their traditions and to hear the music of their culture.

Even though they say ‘a picture says a thousand words’ no photograph that I took can possibly convey the amazing experience this expedition was for me just as words cannot describe it. I have taken away some unforgettable memories of things I never thought possible and formed friendships that I know I will treasure for the rest of my life. I have woken up in spectacular scenery every day but it never got old and I was still awestruck each morning when I first stepped out of the tent and saw the mountains or the lake. There is no part of the expedition that I would change; it was all simply incredible, I just wish that it had lasted longer! It has however, given me a hunger to further explore and learn about the world and I am now, as part of a team, fundraising for and planning to lead our own World Challenge expedition to Peru in 2009.

I am so grateful to everyone who helped me to raise the funds required to go on this expedition as without their help, it would not have been possible.